Mad Fish: Montseratt

MONTSERRAT 6^th and 7^th March

We really wanted to visit to see first hand the destruction a volcano can do and also see one still smoking… does this make us strange?

The cost of a day trip with tour on the ferry is USD 159 per person – around £100 each. To fly in a little 9 seater plane is USD 295 per person. To take the boat cost us EC35 entry fee which is a little under £10. Bargain. We managed to sail most of the way there so that was free but had to motor back. The hour tour cost USD 100 for all of us and EC 30 to go to the MVO (Montserrat Volcano Observation centre). This is a state of the art centre which monitors what is happening. volcanologists come from all over the world to observe and discuss the findings. They show a short video which shows some amazing footage from before, after and during the eruptions of which there have been numerous. check out http://www.mvo.ms/ for more information.

The south of the Island was evacuated in 1995 when it was felt that they could no longer give 6 hours notice to evacuate. It was nearly 2 years later in 1997 that the first eruption actually took place which caused devastation to the southern part of the island and buried the capital, Plymouth. Agricultural land was destroyed, villages were flattened and 19 people were killed. The recordning studio owned by George martin where the likes of the Beatles, Elton John and others recorded albums is just visible above the ash. A third of the population had left the island many taking refuge in Britain. With no homes they were housed in schools and churches and any other communal building. There was no room to take or store furniture and people could only take clothes and personal belongings to the shelters. With little hope of ever returning to their homes and no jobs many decided it was time to leave. Of the 12,000 people who lived on the island only 4000 remain.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00hcdz4

Those that remained have had new homes built for them in Lookout. They pay rent to the government and at the end of the end of a specified time they own the home. Many have paid for their homes and are now extending and improving them. They continue to build new homes, schools and hospitals and construction is one of the biggest employers. This is probably second only to customs who seemed to have 3 officers in the office and very little to do. The lady was sat at her computer muttering, "I just don’t know what windows to choose"! With few visiting yachts, as the anchorage is exposed and hence you roll in the swell . The ferries bring a handfull of tourists because is is expensive. I am really unsure why they need 3 people. There is obviously more people employed by immigration and also more employed by the port. I reckon it is a nice job if you can get it!

Our tour took us to see the new social services building being built. It was massive, but apparently they were going to rent office spaces to small businesses. We were shown the fire station which had numerous engines. Ethan made us chuckle that he didn't think they would do much good against the volcano. The big police station and the prison.

We were told that the UK supports them and they enjoy visits from the Royal Navy a few times a year who come and check on them and help out where they can. The biggest help they give is drinking the island dry although apparently they get a bit loud if they drink too much.

Little Bay is to be the new town and huge investment is planned to build a safe port that will attract cruise ships and sailors. There is talk of a marina. This will invariably cost millions as the infrastructure will have to withstand the full force of the Caribbean sea and any hurricanes that may hit the island. The water is deep and it is difficult to see how they can construct anything strong enough to withstand mother nature. I wish them luck and will watch progress with interest. Perhaps when we set off on another adventure we will be able to visit longer and really enjoy what the island has to offer.

With each eruption the island has grown as the pyroclastic flows tumble down the hills and valleys at speeds of 100 miles an hour. (www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxlRpuTed6g) It looks like a huge cauliflower and covers everything in its path with a film of dust. The dust and rock extends raining down into inhabited areas and on occasions people are told to stay in their homes. The heat generated can cause the most amazing electrical storms. Our guide Cecil told us it gets so dark on days that you cannot see the bonnet of your car. The Navy distributed hard hats to everyone to wear during the eruptions as flying rocks could kill you if struck on the head.

These people have accepted and have great trust In the volcanologist to keep them safe. The volcano shows no sign of stopping and the current vent continues to throw plumes of ash and smoke into the sky. From a distance you would be forgiven for thinking it was just a cloud.

The areas are broken into zones and we were fortunate enough to be taken into zone V and see first hand what had happened to the once capital Plymouth. It was amazing to see that the buildings still stood. You expected everything to be flattened. The blast had removed all the roofs, windows and doors and just the shell remained. We went inside a hotel and walked around. The drawers in the office still had paperwork, it was just all left. The swimming pool was full of ash and plants had started to grow in the fertile soil. The flow had run into the sea and caused the land to extend further off shore. You could still sea the original dock that cruise ships used to visit. It is such a shame that such a vast area of the country will never be inhabited again.

In January 2010 the last big eruption took out the international airport to the east. The flows into the sea can clearly be seen on your approach to the island from Antigua.

A small airport has been build but there is no room to extend to take bigger planes and with only one hotel in operation at present they are desperate to build more and make tourism their income generator for the future. They have nothing to export as the sugar and cotton plantations were all lost to the volcano.

The people are all optimistic of the future and proud of their island and really keen to show it off. They rely heavily on the goods that are brought to the island by ships and it is essential that the harbour is recreated so that vital supplies can be shipped in in the absence of any planes bigger than 9 seaters being able to be landed.

They are also constructing a geo thermal energy plant which will harness the energy from the volcano and turn it into electricity to power the island.

I am really glad that we took the time to visit this island and see first hand what nature can do.

I found this new research just released today.
http://planetearth.nerc.ac.uk/news/story.aspx?id=1405

Photographs of our visit.