Nazare - couldn't wait to leave.
Sometimes you stop somewhere and you wish you had kept going and chanced your luck with the Lobster pots. Nazare was one if those places. It was a convenient 35 miles from Figuera da Foz and 65 miles from Oerios (near Lisbon) so a convenient break point. We would have liked to continue to Peniche (14 miles further on), but the pilot book warned of fast moving fishing vessels day and night, and also of poor shelter, which could make for an uncomfortable and boat damaging night. The forecast for Saturday was twenty knots on the nose so we felt it was unlikely we would make passage the next day. Nazare boasted a secure and sheltered harbour. The photos gave a view of two beaches and also said there was good supermarket even though it was a mile away.
On entering Nazare we were greatest by captain Jack (not his real name, but he was a captain and we had been watching pirates of the Caribbean) who had a worrying resemblance to my late granddad on my dad’s side. He must have been seventy and walked with a stick. He asked our beam and asked us to reverse into a space. I think it was a test, which we passed, it was also a good berth in a small marina so we couldn't really complain. We were then told he had been watching us all morning on AIS so knew we were coming and told us off for not calling on the radio. We have given up calling on radios as noone ever answer, and the marinas have waiting pontoons. I was told I could be fined hundreds of euros for not having the radio on channel 16 at all times. He had been on another visitors boat when we arrived. He helped us tie and then made a hasty retreat back to his boat safe in the knowledge Capt Jack was now occupied by us and he was able to enjoy some peace.
We were told the rules which included not being allowed to wash the boat with fresh water as they had not had rain since November. The next night it rained! They lived in a house but there was only five hours of water a day and on the ship (his boat that looked a bit like a pirate ship) he had it 24 hours, so they were living onboard. We were told to take our papers up and then told not to worry as he had called the office and the man was not there. We sorted ourselves out and he still kept going on about us taking papers. Then we were given an information pack which helpfully included busses and a map. Ethan started to fish with his net and we were told not to eat the mullet as they were poisonous but if we caught a little black and white striped one they were lovely.
Sometimes you stop somewhere and you wish you had kept going and chanced your luck with the Lobster pots. Nazare was one if those places. It was a convenient 35 miles from Figuera da Foz and 65 miles from Oerios (near Lisbon) so a convenient break point. We would have liked to continue to Peniche (14 miles further on), but the pilot book warned of fast moving fishing vessels day and night, and also of poor shelter, which could make for an uncomfortable and boat damaging night. The forecast for Saturday was twenty knots on the nose so we felt it was unlikely we would make passage the next day. Nazare boasted a secure and sheltered harbour. The photos gave a view of two beaches and also said there was good supermarket even though it was a mile away.
On entering Nazare we were greatest by captain Jack (not his real name, but he was a captain and we had been watching pirates of the Caribbean) who had a worrying resemblance to my late granddad on my dad’s side. He must have been seventy and walked with a stick. He asked our beam and asked us to reverse into a space. I think it was a test, which we passed, it was also a good berth in a small marina so we couldn't really complain. We were then told he had been watching us all morning on AIS so knew we were coming and told us off for not calling on the radio. We have given up calling on radios as noone ever answer, and the marinas have waiting pontoons. I was told I could be fined hundreds of euros for not having the radio on channel 16 at all times. He had been on another visitors boat when we arrived. He helped us tie and then made a hasty retreat back to his boat safe in the knowledge Capt Jack was now occupied by us and he was able to enjoy some peace.
We were told the rules which included not being allowed to wash the boat with fresh water as they had not had rain since November. The next night it rained! They lived in a house but there was only five hours of water a day and on the ship (his boat that looked a bit like a pirate ship) he had it 24 hours, so they were living onboard. We were told to take our papers up and then told not to worry as he had called the office and the man was not there. We sorted ourselves out and he still kept going on about us taking papers. Then we were given an information pack which helpfully included busses and a map. Ethan started to fish with his net and we were told not to eat the mullet as they were poisonous but if we caught a little black and white striped one they were lovely.
We decided to go to the office get an ice cream from the
mini market which doubled as a bar (Irish style). We took a stroll to stretch
our legs and check out the beach ten minutes’ walk from the marina over some
sand dunes. The beach was massive but virtually deserted. There were breaking
waves despite being very little wind . The boys were looking forward to body
boarding the next day. We walked back to the boat and Capt Jack admonished us
for walking on the dangerous beach. Apparently people had died only last week
when a wave swept them out to sea. The undertow took you to the underwater
cavern some 100 metres deep in the bay. We had not told him we were going for a
walk. We didn't know we needed permission and also felt suitably told off.
We were told the forecast for the next day and that Madeira was suffering a hurricane.
We were told that we had not gone out far enough off the coast to pick up the 1.5 knot of positive current. We would have arrived a good two hours earlier as we would have had tide against where we were. Our gps said we had current with but it was point less arguing.
When asked where we were heading we said Oerios which we obviously pronounced wrong as we had Nazare and then onto Madeira. We should not go any further south if we were going to Madeira because we would not benefit from the magic current, we would be swept into oblivion never to be seen again.
A little speed boat moored behind us s later and spent a good hour using the hose to clean his boat. Capt Jack said nothing, so perhaps it is just us not allowed to clean.
Capt Jack did his rounds the next morning, and told everyone that they would be doomed if they left today. There was 50 km winds forecast and a 5 metre swell. If we left we would surely die. Our forecast had 20 knots on the nose so we were staying put. More boats arrived, his plans had been ruined by a catamaran arriving unannounced at 3am . This was the berth he was saving for someone who would now have to raft. The catamaran owner blotted his copybook more by saying he planned to leave his boat unattended for a couple of days to travel to Porto and collect his wife who was flying in. Capt Jack had to think if this was allowed before giving permission. We still do not know if he has any paid employment by the port, he is mentioned in the pilot book so perhaps he was employed and has refused to relinquish control. Sally his wife keeps her head down and is probably deaf to his moaning about all the visitors.
Our cockpit was opposite his ship so it was difficult not to hear him, and we had to spend more time below because we were scared and also struggled to contain our giggling.
We went shopping taking bikes and scooters. It was not an ideal surface as they like cobbled pavements but we made it. The map was not clear and Russ understood why it took me so long to do shopping in all these new places. We found the fresh market and brought some steak and a chicken. We opted to have the one without head and feet. The boys were also a bit perturbed by the stuffed rams head and yet again asked if we could have rabbit to which I said no! You can buy whole rabbits everywhere. I have cooked rabit before from a farmers market, but I am not overly keen and the boys only like the idea.
We got some burgers and cooked them on our gas BBQ. This is in the opinion of u know who, was not as good as the real thing. Apparently you can get fined for not flying a courtesy flag, we were not sure if it was polite to ask if he had an exemption as he did not have one and we pointed proudly to ours in case he hadn’t seen it. The next day we were told we were breaking flag etiquette by flying our club burgee and the courtesy flag on the same halliard. Russ just said he would bear it in mind.
We went to the safe beach which was too rough for surfing and Russell in the canoe. He ended up with a vast amount of stones in his trunks as he was tipped out of the canoe in the breaking surf. He agreed when he got back to the boat the canoe was not such a good idea.
We were told the forecast for the next day and that Madeira was suffering a hurricane.
We were told that we had not gone out far enough off the coast to pick up the 1.5 knot of positive current. We would have arrived a good two hours earlier as we would have had tide against where we were. Our gps said we had current with but it was point less arguing.
When asked where we were heading we said Oerios which we obviously pronounced wrong as we had Nazare and then onto Madeira. We should not go any further south if we were going to Madeira because we would not benefit from the magic current, we would be swept into oblivion never to be seen again.
A little speed boat moored behind us s later and spent a good hour using the hose to clean his boat. Capt Jack said nothing, so perhaps it is just us not allowed to clean.
Capt Jack did his rounds the next morning, and told everyone that they would be doomed if they left today. There was 50 km winds forecast and a 5 metre swell. If we left we would surely die. Our forecast had 20 knots on the nose so we were staying put. More boats arrived, his plans had been ruined by a catamaran arriving unannounced at 3am . This was the berth he was saving for someone who would now have to raft. The catamaran owner blotted his copybook more by saying he planned to leave his boat unattended for a couple of days to travel to Porto and collect his wife who was flying in. Capt Jack had to think if this was allowed before giving permission. We still do not know if he has any paid employment by the port, he is mentioned in the pilot book so perhaps he was employed and has refused to relinquish control. Sally his wife keeps her head down and is probably deaf to his moaning about all the visitors.
Our cockpit was opposite his ship so it was difficult not to hear him, and we had to spend more time below because we were scared and also struggled to contain our giggling.
We went shopping taking bikes and scooters. It was not an ideal surface as they like cobbled pavements but we made it. The map was not clear and Russ understood why it took me so long to do shopping in all these new places. We found the fresh market and brought some steak and a chicken. We opted to have the one without head and feet. The boys were also a bit perturbed by the stuffed rams head and yet again asked if we could have rabbit to which I said no! You can buy whole rabbits everywhere. I have cooked rabit before from a farmers market, but I am not overly keen and the boys only like the idea.
We got some burgers and cooked them on our gas BBQ. This is in the opinion of u know who, was not as good as the real thing. Apparently you can get fined for not flying a courtesy flag, we were not sure if it was polite to ask if he had an exemption as he did not have one and we pointed proudly to ours in case he hadn’t seen it. The next day we were told we were breaking flag etiquette by flying our club burgee and the courtesy flag on the same halliard. Russ just said he would bear it in mind.
We went to the safe beach which was too rough for surfing and Russell in the canoe. He ended up with a vast amount of stones in his trunks as he was tipped out of the canoe in the breaking surf. He agreed when he got back to the boat the canoe was not such a good idea.
We were told that the weather for Sunday was going to stay
windy and increase the swell, no one should consider leaving for the next week
until it died down. The forecast was for the wind to go round to the west on
Sunday afternoon and we considered the possibility of running to Peniche but
the wind stayed south so we were going to have to make a run for it the next
morning. We kept our plans secret.
We had seen our friends on Intrepid Bear go past on Saturday morning. They had decided to do an overnight from Porto and do the 160 miles all in one hit. This now looked like the cleverer idea. They kindly sent us a photo of the pool at the marina and invited us to Harry's 5th birthday party on Tuesday. Champagne for adults and cake for kids. It was a good offer so we were definitely making a run for it on Monday.
Russell tested out buying the diesel from the petrol station and ferrying it on the bike. Experience told us we would not have enough wind to sail. Whilst filling the tank a German boat we had seen several times recently stopped for a chat. It was at this moment Capt Jacks stern line snapped and Russell and the German sprang into action to stop the ship from floating away. Capt Jack was not phased that he had inadequate warps considering the strong winds and accepted the offer of help to secure the ship with a new rope. Capt Jack walked with a stick so was not so nimble.
The ship had cats, I counted 3. They liked to come and visit. We are not sure if they were bugged or carried cameras on their collars. We are scarred that one will stow away when we leave.
We packed the boat away and l somehow managed to escape a lecture from the Capt. He had probably decided we were mad fools and were passed the point of reasoning with. I don't think it was our age as he was like it with all the visitors.
We had seen our friends on Intrepid Bear go past on Saturday morning. They had decided to do an overnight from Porto and do the 160 miles all in one hit. This now looked like the cleverer idea. They kindly sent us a photo of the pool at the marina and invited us to Harry's 5th birthday party on Tuesday. Champagne for adults and cake for kids. It was a good offer so we were definitely making a run for it on Monday.
Russell tested out buying the diesel from the petrol station and ferrying it on the bike. Experience told us we would not have enough wind to sail. Whilst filling the tank a German boat we had seen several times recently stopped for a chat. It was at this moment Capt Jacks stern line snapped and Russell and the German sprang into action to stop the ship from floating away. Capt Jack was not phased that he had inadequate warps considering the strong winds and accepted the offer of help to secure the ship with a new rope. Capt Jack walked with a stick so was not so nimble.
The ship had cats, I counted 3. They liked to come and visit. We are not sure if they were bugged or carried cameras on their collars. We are scarred that one will stow away when we leave.
We packed the boat away and l somehow managed to escape a lecture from the Capt. He had probably decided we were mad fools and were passed the point of reasoning with. I don't think it was our age as he was like it with all the visitors.
We have spoken to many others about if they had stopped at
Nazare. A few had and shared our views and others had read blogs like mine and
decided to give a wide berth. Despite what the guide says there were English boats
mored in the yacht club marina opposite which is much closer to the town. If we
ever had need to go again we would go there.
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